Business Casual – Men’s Clothing as a Young Professional Part 2 – Shirts
It’s been a month since my last post on men’s fashion which garnered a great response from readers. Google Analytics shows that men are very interested in tips on how to dress. While I’m not a total metrosexual, I do have a trendy girlfriend who makes sure I look moderately presentable. I ride the Tube with investment banker types everyday and while I don’t rock a suit, I do drink in the same pubs as these folks after work and don’t want to feel under-dressed in social situations… call me shallow! Continuing with fashion tips, let’s dive into one of the most important parts of men’s dress… shirts!
Shirts are probably the most visible part of the male wardrobe. I’ve heard from some women that they look at mens shoes the most and from some other women that a watch is the most important. Regardless of what women are checking out, a good shirt definitely enhances your presence. The following recommendations, while common sense, seem to elude a lot of folks, especially where I work in IT. Don’t even get me started on engineering!
Business Casual Dress Tips on Shirts
Buying good shirts
Most important of all – BUY A SHIRT THAT FITS! The seams on the shoulder’s should be resting on the edge of your shoulders when the top button of your collar is closed. Get measured for free at any department store. You’re an adult now, these measurements shouldn’t really change in your 20s. Polo shirts are barely acceptable, but aim for better and get a man’s shirt with more than three buttons. Avoid Seagull, Eagle and Moose logos. Ugh, this is so college, you’re a young professional now! Striped shirts are great, but be sure to have some solids too. Mix it up a bit! Be on the look-out for shirts with a nice texture/weave. Herringbone shirts are spiffy. Flat fabric is nice, but look at some of the more expensive shirts like Joseph Abboud and you will see the quality in the weave.
As a trendy fellow, you should really try to buy fitted shirts. Take a look at the mannequins in the store, notice how nice the shirt hugs the torso. You should also notice the number of pins holding the shirt back to make the shirt look like it would actually fit a man nicely. Be disappointed when you get home and unfold the shapeless potato sack you’ve just been sold. As nice way to avoid this is to actually purchase fitted shirts. The Gap and Banana Rep. have some decent fitted shirts, any higher end department store should have these as well. It’s proven that women like the tapered shape from men’s shoulder’s to waist and we don’t want to disappoint!
I’m not sure what an appropriate number of shirts is, but I’d say at least ten is a good number. Even if you spend $40 bucks a shirt, for only $400 you have pretty much half of your wardrobe. I went nuts at Century 21 in New York and for $350 I got about 12 shirts when I found a big selection of 14 1/2″ 32/33 which is pretty hard to find. They have Big and Tall stores, I think there is a business proposition in ‘Short and Small’.
Bonus points: cuff-links
Old Man points: monogrammed shirts. Seriously. Might as well monogram D. BAG on your forehead.
Cleaning and pressing
So you’ve got a bunch of nice shirts.. sooner or later they’re going to need some cleaning. You can be like most people and drop it off at the dry cleaner. Unless you specifically ask for dry cleaning (you will know by the fact that your bill is huge) you’re probably just laundering your shirts. This means they’re basically washing your threads in a common machine with other people’s shirts as well. Grody. Save yourself the money and wash your shirts on your own in the washer. Wash similar colors together on gentle cycle, remove the collar stays first and hang dry. Be sure to use stainstick or something else around the collar to keep shirts fresh. Don’t dry them in the dryer as it ages shirts quickly. I started doing this after my dry cleaner ruined about $250 worth of Express MX shirts when they pressed them and burned the edges. I’m sure I’ve saved a ton of cash over the years, maybe I should use this saved money to justify my purchase of GTA IV…
You could have a closet full of D&G shirts, but if they’re a wrinkled mess you’re not impressing anyone. Despite Abercrombie’s attempts, a wrinkled shirt is not acceptable! The easiest way to make sure you’re always wrinkle-free: learn how to iron, even if you dry clean. If you’re new to ironing be extra careful around the collars, only iron the backside to prevent singeing the edges, especially with dark collars. With light colored shirts, especially cotton, be sure to starch them to keep them nice looking. If you’re really bad at ironing, which apparently a lot of people are, invest in Brooke’s Brothers wrinkle free shirts. I know a ton of people (like my buddy Tad) who swear by these things.
Undershirt of no undershirt?
Personally, I prefer to wear a v-neck undershirt so you don’t see the trademark American undershirt sticking out. I like black tank tops as well as I feel like a bad ass when I take my button down off after work and leave my belt, pants and shoes on. Anyone else get this feeling? This is a gray area for me, I’d like to hear what other people have to say about this.
There you have it. A few suggestions on men’s shirts. Most seem pretty reasonable in my eyes, but then again, I’ve seen some real slobs in my job, at all levels. Of course, looking nice is no subsitiute for solid perfomance, but subconsciously I think you start from a position of strength when people realize you can actually dress yourself and look good in the process.
Holla back. Let me hear your thoughts. Especially you… Polo boy.
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Brooks Brothers iron free are the real deal. I don’t know how they do it but it’s amazing. Also check out their “slim fit” line for that fitted look.
Regarding undershirts, you should wear them whenever the temperature allows (i.e. pretty much all year). Your dress shirts won’t be exposed to as much body oil and will last longer. If you’re a sweat-er, the undershirt is doubly important.
And I agree–get the v-neck so they don’t peek out of your collar.
I just want to see the commercial for a men’s store called “short and small.” The connotation alone would sink the brand.
I rock the Lacoste polo at work.
It’s not the most professional look, but I work in the internet industry where jeans and sneakers are the norm.
I think I’m the only person in the office who wears khakis.
Only problem with v-neck undershirts is if you’ve got hair at the base of your throat, like myself. I stick to the classic white undershirts, but I buy higher quality ones, since I wear them everyday.
Greg- As a man you’re allowed to ‘trim’ body hair.. cut those bad boys down, or as I say ‘extinguish some of that Miami heat.’ Men aren’t allowed to shave or wax below the neck, but weed whack away with a trimmer.
Andrea- Should it be ‘Short and Small*’
*Small in stature
Another suggestion is to look for custom tailored shirts. A lot of people think these are ridiculously expensive, but if you find the right tailor, they aren’t. There’s a tailor that comes through Ottawa twice a year for about a week at a time, and by the time you choose a really nice fabric (including many nice textures and whatnot), and get custom fitted, you only spend about 60CAD per shirt, delivered to your door.
Great post, Grant! Would’ve loved to hear more Bonus Points vs Old Man Points. That might be a postworthy by itself.
For example: suspenders. In or out? Some dress shirts have chest pockets. Is it acceptable to actually use them?
Here’s a new alternative in men’s undershirts (www.ribbedtee.com) that people may want to check out.
RibbedTee undershirts combine the cool comfort and close fit of a ribbed tank top, with the protection of a typical v-neck or crew neck undershirt. They come in black and white, crew neck and v-neck, so you can pretty much wear them for any occasion, including under those expensive dress shirts!
Great point on the collar stays – so many men don’t realize their importance, they buy cheap shirts with the cheap plastic stays and lose them and then get that curled collar look. Nordstroms and Brooks Brothers both sell very nice brass stays.
As to t-shirst, a neat trick is to where grey. They reflect less light as white and therefore are less obtrusive under lighter shirts.
I would be a frequent customer at the Short and Small store. The truth is, most men seem to be confused about their size and buy shirts much larger than their size. Everywhere I’ve shopped, it seems there are rarely any smalls available, but several XLs. I’d rather where a shirt that fits nice than look cool shopping at a store where hardly anything fits at all. And I’m 5’6”, only two inches below average male height!
The advice offered here is priceless for those of us without a trendy girlfriend or any clue on how to dress for success. Something I think needs to be addressed, though, is haircut. What’s good? What’s bad? What’s ugly? Does a faux-hawk match your shirt and tie? This is something I desperately need help with.